Crashproof Biker Arm Guard

Certified protection

Tested and approved on both sides of the Atlantic

This helmet carries dual homologation, which means it has passed the safety standards that apply in the United States and across Europe, the UK and Australia. Both labels are stitched into the chin strap.

DOT United States

FMVSS 218

The federal standard every helmet sold for road use in the US must meet. It sets the baseline for how much energy a shell has to absorb before it passes anything on to your head.

Impact absorption dropped onto flat and kerb-shaped anvils
Penetration resistance against a pointed striker
Retention system tested under load so the strap holds in a crash
Minimum peripheral vision of 105° to each side

ECE 22.06 Europe · UK · Australia

UN Regulation 22

Independent labs test batches of production helmets before they can be sold, rather than relying on the manufacturer's own word. It is the stricter of the two standards and the more demanding to pass.

Impacts measured at multiple points across the shell, not just the crown
Angled impacts that measure rotational forces on the brain, not just straight-on hits
The chin bar tested as a structural part of the helmet
Visor optics, abrasion resistance and field of view assessed separately

Why the chin bar matters. Around a fifth of helmet impacts in a crash land on the chin. It is the single area a full-face covers that an open-face or half helmet leaves exposed, and under ECE 22.06 it has to prove itself under test rather than simply be present.

Certification confirms the helmet met the standard when tested. It cannot make any crash survivable. Replace any helmet after an impact, even if it looks undamaged.

Find your size

Get the fit right the first time

Helmet sizes have nothing to do with your clothing size. They are based on the circumference of your head in centimetres, so take one measurement before you order and you will almost certainly land on the right size.

How to measure

Take a soft tape measure, or a piece of string you can lay flat against a ruler afterwards.
Wrap it around your head roughly 1 cm above your eyebrows and above your ears — the widest point of your skull.
Keep the tape level all the way round and snug, but not pulled tight. Measure twice and take the larger of the two.

Enter your measurement

cm

Size chart

Head circumference by size
Size	CM	Inch
S	53 - 54	20.87 - 21.26
M	55 - 56	21.65 - 22.05
L	57 - 58	22.44 - 22.83
XL	59 - 60	23.23 - 23.62
2XL	61 - 62	24.02 - 24.41
3XL	63 - 64	24.8 - 25.2
4XL	65 - 66	25.59 - 25.98

How a correct fit should feel

Even pressure all the way around, with no single hot spot on your forehead or temples
Cheek pads noticeably compress your cheeks — enough that talking feels odd at first
With the strap fastened, the helmet moves your scalp rather than sliding across it
Roll test: hands on the back, push forward. It should not roll off over your brow
No gap you can slide a finger into between the brow pad and your forehead
Comfortable after 15 minutes wearing it indoors, not just in the first 30 seconds

Tight over your ears is normal Every full-face is a squeeze to put on, because the opening has to be smaller than your head. Pull the strap edges outward as you slide it down.

Between two sizes? Go smaller The liner compresses roughly 3–5 mm over the first few rides. A helmet that feels comfortable straight out of the box is usually too big.

Head shape matters too If a correctly sized helmet presses on your forehead but leaves space at the sides, the shell shape is wrong for you rather than the size.

Still not sure? Order the size the chart gives you. Exchanges are free within 60 days and we cover the cost of sending the replacement out to you.

Visor & visibility

A clear view, in any weather

The visor is the part of a full-face you interact with on every ride. This one comes off and back on in under a minute without tools, and the ventilation is set up to keep it clear when the temperature drops.

Changing the visor

Open the visor fully to its highest position until it stops.
Press the release catch on the side plate and lift the visor away from the shell.
Line the new visor up with the side plate, push until both sides click, then open and close it once to check it seats properly.

Keeping it clear

The inside face carries an anti-fog treatment from new
The chin vent pushes air up the inside of the screen rather than into your face
At traffic lights or low speed, crack the visor open one detent and it clears in seconds
Breath guard and chin curtain cut how much warm air reaches the screen in the first place

Riding through winter? The visor has Pinlock pins fitted as standard. A Pinlock insert seals a thin layer of air against the screen and is by far the most effective fix for fogging in cold and wet conditions — more so than any coating on its own. Worth adding if you ride year-round or commute in the dark.

Replacement visors

Clear

The one fitted in the box. Maximum light transmission and the only choice for riding after dark or in poor weather.

Day & night

Smoke tint

Cuts glare on bright days and low winter sun. Keep a clear visor with you if there is any chance of riding home in the dark.

Daytime only

Iridium

A mirrored finish over a tinted base. The strongest glare reduction of the three, and the reason half the paddock wears one.

Daytime only

Built-in sun visor. A tinted screen drops down behind the main visor at the flick of a slider, so you can deal with changing light without carrying a spare visor or stopping to swap one over.

Looking after it

Soak dried insects off with a warm damp cloth laid over the visor for a minute first

Never wipe a dry visor — grit drags across the surface and leaves permanent scratches

Warm water, mild soap and a soft microfibre cloth is all it needs

No glass cleaner, ammonia, alcohol or petrol-based solvents — they strip the anti-fog and anti-scratch coatings

Replace the visor once scratches sit in your line of sight — they scatter light badly at night

Don't leave the helmet in direct sun on a dashboard — heat warps the seal and clouds the screen

Airflow & comfort

How it breathes, and how it sounds

A chin bar buys you protection and quiet, and costs you some airflow. Here is exactly what that trade-off feels like on the road, so there are no surprises the first time you ride it in summer traffic.

The path air takes

Step 01

Chin intake

Draws air in at the front and sends most of it up the inside of the visor, where it clears fog before it forms.

Step 02

Brow intakes

Feed cool air straight onto your forehead and scalp — the area that heats up first and fastest.

Step 03

Channels in the EPS

Grooves moulded into the impact liner carry that air backwards across the top of your head instead of letting it stall.

Step 04

Rear exhaust

Low pressure behind the shell pulls warm, damp air out. Without an exit, intakes on their own do very little.

In hot weather

Open every vent. Airflow scales with road speed, so it stays comfortable once you are moving
Stop-and-go traffic in high heat is the hard part — there is no airflow when you are not moving
Pull the chin curtain out for summer. It cuts noise but also cuts the air reaching your face
Expect it to run warmer than an open-face. That is the cost of covering your chin, not a fault

In cold and wet

Close the brow vents but leave the chin vent open — that one is doing the anti-fog work
Sliders are sized to work with winter gloves on, without taking a hand off the bar for long
Vents are shielded so rain does not run straight through onto your head
Fully sealed in freezing weather will fog. Crack the visor one detent at low speed to clear it

What it sounds like at speed

This is the quiet end of the range. The chin bar and the sealed visor break up airflow before it reaches your ears, which is the single biggest difference between a full-face and anything open. On a long ride it is the reason you arrive less worn out.

Most of the noise that does get through is turbulence rolling off your screen and shoulders rather than the helmet itself. A rider tucked behind a tall touring screen and a rider on a naked bike will describe the same helmet completely differently.

The chin curtain closes off the gap under the chin bar and makes a noticeable difference on the motorway. Leave it in for winter, take it out for summer.

Full-face, visor down
Full-face, visor cracked open
Open-face with goggles
Half helmet

A general comparison between helmet types at motorway speed, not a measurement of this model. Your screen, riding position and bike change it more than the helmet does.

Wear earplugs anyway. Wind noise at motorway speed sits well above the level considered safe for sustained exposure, and no helmet on the market brings it down far enough on its own. Quieter means less fatigue on a long day — it does not mean your hearing is protected. Plugs cost very little and you still hear traffic and your engine clearly.

Choosing a style

Is a full-face the right helmet for you?

We sell all three styles, so we have no reason to talk you into the wrong one. A helmet you leave hanging on the mirror because it annoys you protects nobody. Here is an honest comparison so you can buy once.

Comparison of full-face, open-face and half helmets
	Full-faceYou are viewing this	Open-face	Half helmet
What it covers	Whole head including chin and jaw, with a visor over your eyes	Top, back and sides. Chin and jaw are exposed	Top of the head only. Ears, chin and jaw exposed
Wind, rain and cold	Sealed behind the visor. Comfortable in weather most riders would avoid	Face is exposed. Goggles or a bubble shield are close to essential	No weather protection at all. Eye protection is on you
Noise at speed	The quietest of the three by a wide margin	Loud above roughly 50 km/h without a screen	Loudest. Nothing between your ears and the airflow
Airflow in summer	Manageable when moving, warm in stop-and-go traffic	Excellent. The reason many riders keep one for the city	Coolest of the three
Field of view	Meets the certified minimum, though the eye port frames what you see	Wide open, with nothing in your peripheral vision	Completely unobstructed
Wearing glasses	Workable, but you feed them in through the eye port after the helmet is on	Easy. Put them on and off however you like	No restriction whatsoever
Best suited to	Motorway runs, daily commuting, year-round riding, faster roads	Town riding, classic and cruiser builds, warm climates, short trips	Slow cruising in good weather, riders who want the least helmet possible

A full-face is the right call if

You spend time on motorways or fast A roads
You commute in whatever weather turns up, including the dark half of the year
You ride for hours at a time and want to arrive less battered by wind and noise
You want the most coverage available, and chin protection is not negotiable for you

Look at another style if

Almost all your riding is short hops around town in hot weather
You find enclosed helmets genuinely uncomfortable and know you would stop wearing it
The look matters as much as the function and you are building something classic
You want to talk to people, eat and drink without taking the helmet off

Open-face helmets Half helmets

One thing worth saying plainly. Every helmet on this site is certified, and certification is a floor rather than a ranking. A full-face covers more of your head than the other two styles, and that difference is real. But the helmet that actually protects you is the one you reach for every time you ride, so pick the style you will genuinely wear.

Crashproof Biker Arm Guard