1. 360° Rotatable Design — full adjustability so you can position your phone in any angle for easy viewing
2. Secure-Lock Clamping — strong mechanical grip keeps your phone locked in place even on bumpy roads
3. Premium Aluminum Alloy Build — lightweight yet rugged, corrosion-resistant, and road-ready
4. Universal Compatibility — fits most smartphone sizes and handlebar diameters (motorcycle, e-bike, electric scooter)
5. Anti-Slip Silicone Pads — extra grip + protective cushion that prevents scratches and vibration
6. Quick Install & Tool-Free Setup — mount or remove in seconds with no complicated tools
7. Water-Resistant Construction — dependable even in light rain or wet conditions
BikerForge Secure-Lock™ Phone Mount
Black
Sale price
$49.99
Regular price $99.98
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✅ Features
BikerForge Secure-Lock™ Phone Mount
Sale price
$49.99
Regular price $99.98
Shipping calculated at checkout.
Free shipping over $100
Tracked delivery worldwide
60-day returns
Wrong size? Swap it free
Secure checkout
Encrypted payment
1-year warranty
Covers manufacturing defects
✅ Features
📦 Specification
Material: High-quality aluminum alloy + reinforced plastic
Rotation: 360° adjustable head
Compatibility: All standard motorcycle/scooter handlebar sizes and most smartphones
Color: Black (match any ride gear)
Weight: Lightweight yet durable
🎁 Package Includes
1 × BikerForge Secure-Lock™ Phone Mount
1 × Mounting Hardware Kit
1 × Anti-Slip Silicone Pads
1 × Quick Setup Guide
⚠️ Notes
1. Please confirm your handlebar diameter and phone size before purchase to ensure compatibility.
2. Minor variations in finish or color may occur between production batches, but performance remains consistent.
3. Designed for everyday riding and navigation use — not intended to support extra accessories heavy on vibration.
Shipping
Free shipping on every order over $100. Orders under $100 are charged a flat rate shown at checkout before you pay.
- Dispatched within 1–2 business days of ordering
- Delivery takes 7–10 business days
- We ship worldwide, tracked door to door
- Tracking number emailed as soon as your order leaves our warehouse
- All prices charged in USD
Delivery times are business days and exclude weekends and public holidays. Orders placed after 2pm ship the following business day. Import duties and taxes are not included and are set by your local customs authority.
60-day returns & refunds
Not the right fit? Send it back within 60 days for a full refund. No restocking fee, no explanation needed.
- Helmet must be unworn, undamaged and returned in its original box with all tags and padding
- Email support@bikerforge.com with your order number to start a return
- Refunds are issued to your original payment method within 5–7 business days of us receiving the helmet
For safety reasons we cannot accept returns on helmets that have been worn on the road or involved in an impact, as the protective shell can be compromised in ways that are not visible.
Exchanges & sizing
Ordered the wrong size? Exchanges are free within the 60-day window — we cover the cost of sending the replacement out to you.
- Email us your order number and the size you need
- We reserve your replacement while your original helmet is on its way back
- Check the size guide on this page before ordering to get it right first time
Tested and approved on both sides of the Atlantic
This helmet carries dual homologation, which means it has passed the safety standards that apply in the United States and across Europe, the UK and Australia. Both labels are stitched into the chin strap.
FMVSS 218
The federal standard every helmet sold for road use in the US must meet. It sets the baseline for how much energy a shell has to absorb before it passes anything on to your head.
- Impact absorption dropped onto flat and kerb-shaped anvils
- Penetration resistance against a pointed striker
- Retention system tested under load so the strap holds in a crash
- Minimum peripheral vision of 105° to each side
UN Regulation 22
Independent labs test batches of production helmets before they can be sold, rather than relying on the manufacturer's own word. It is the stricter of the two standards and the more demanding to pass.
- Impacts measured at multiple points across the shell, not just the crown
- Angled impacts that measure rotational forces on the brain, not just straight-on hits
- The chin bar tested as a structural part of the helmet
- Visor optics, abrasion resistance and field of view assessed separately
Why the chin bar matters. Around a fifth of helmet impacts in a crash
land on the chin. It is the single area a full-face covers that an open-face or half
helmet leaves exposed, and under ECE 22.06 it has to prove itself under test rather
than simply be present.
Certification confirms the helmet met the standard when tested. It cannot make any
crash survivable. Replace any helmet after an impact, even if it looks undamaged.
Get the fit right the first time
Helmet sizes have nothing to do with your clothing size. They are based on the circumference of your head in centimetres, so take one measurement before you order and you will almost certainly land on the right size.
How to measure
- Take a soft tape measure, or a piece of string you can lay flat against a ruler afterwards.
- Wrap it around your head roughly 1 cm above your eyebrows and above your ears — the widest point of your skull.
- Keep the tape level all the way round and snug, but not pulled tight. Measure twice and take the larger of the two.
cm
Size chart
| Size | CM | Inch |
|---|---|---|
| S | 53 - 54 | 20.87 - 21.26 |
| M | 55 - 56 | 21.65 - 22.05 |
| L | 57 - 58 | 22.44 - 22.83 |
| XL | 59 - 60 | 23.23 - 23.62 |
| 2XL | 61 - 62 | 24.02 - 24.41 |
| 3XL | 63 - 64 | 24.8 - 25.2 |
| 4XL | 65 - 66 | 25.59 - 25.98 |
How a correct fit should feel
- Even pressure all the way around, with no single hot spot on your forehead or temples
- Cheek pads noticeably compress your cheeks — enough that talking feels odd at first
- With the strap fastened, the helmet moves your scalp rather than sliding across it
- Roll test: hands on the back, push forward. It should not roll off over your brow
- No gap you can slide a finger into between the brow pad and your forehead
- Comfortable after 15 minutes wearing it indoors, not just in the first 30 seconds
Tight over your ears is normal
Every full-face is a squeeze to put on, because the opening has to be smaller than your head. Pull the strap edges outward as you slide it down.
Between two sizes? Go smaller
The liner compresses roughly 3–5 mm over the first few rides. A helmet that feels comfortable straight out of the box is usually too big.
Head shape matters too
If a correctly sized helmet presses on your forehead but leaves space at the sides, the shell shape is wrong for you rather than the size.
Still not sure? Order the size the chart gives you. Exchanges are free within 60 days and we cover the cost of sending the replacement out to you.
A clear view, in any weather
The visor is the part of a full-face you interact with on every ride. This one comes off and back on in under a minute without tools, and the ventilation is set up to keep it clear when the temperature drops.
Changing the visor
- Open the visor fully to its highest position until it stops.
- Press the release catch on the side plate and lift the visor away from the shell.
- Line the new visor up with the side plate, push until both sides click, then open and close it once to check it seats properly.
Keeping it clear
- The inside face carries an anti-fog treatment from new
- The chin vent pushes air up the inside of the screen rather than into your face
- At traffic lights or low speed, crack the visor open one detent and it clears in seconds
- Breath guard and chin curtain cut how much warm air reaches the screen in the first place
Riding through winter? The visor has Pinlock pins fitted as standard.
A Pinlock insert seals a thin layer of air against the screen and is by far the most
effective fix for fogging in cold and wet conditions — more so than any coating
on its own. Worth adding if you ride year-round or commute in the dark.
Replacement visors
Built-in sun visor. A tinted screen drops down behind the main visor
at the flick of a slider, so you can deal with changing light without carrying a spare
visor or stopping to swap one over.
Looking after it
Soak dried insects off with a warm damp cloth laid over the visor for a minute first
Never wipe a dry visor — grit drags across the surface and leaves permanent scratches
Warm water, mild soap and a soft microfibre cloth is all it needs
No glass cleaner, ammonia, alcohol or petrol-based solvents — they strip the anti-fog and anti-scratch coatings
Replace the visor once scratches sit in your line of sight — they scatter light badly at night
Don't leave the helmet in direct sun on a dashboard — heat warps the seal and clouds the screen
How it breathes, and how it sounds
A chin bar buys you protection and quiet, and costs you some airflow. Here is exactly what that trade-off feels like on the road, so there are no surprises the first time you ride it in summer traffic.
The path air takes
Step 01
Chin intake
Draws air in at the front and sends most of it up the inside of the visor, where it clears fog before it forms.
Step 02
Brow intakes
Feed cool air straight onto your forehead and scalp — the area that heats up first and fastest.
Step 03
Channels in the EPS
Grooves moulded into the impact liner carry that air backwards across the top of your head instead of letting it stall.
Step 04
Rear exhaust
Low pressure behind the shell pulls warm, damp air out. Without an exit, intakes on their own do very little.
In hot weather
- Open every vent. Airflow scales with road speed, so it stays comfortable once you are moving
- Stop-and-go traffic in high heat is the hard part — there is no airflow when you are not moving
- Pull the chin curtain out for summer. It cuts noise but also cuts the air reaching your face
- Expect it to run warmer than an open-face. That is the cost of covering your chin, not a fault
In cold and wet
- Close the brow vents but leave the chin vent open — that one is doing the anti-fog work
- Sliders are sized to work with winter gloves on, without taking a hand off the bar for long
- Vents are shielded so rain does not run straight through onto your head
- Fully sealed in freezing weather will fog. Crack the visor one detent at low speed to clear it
What it sounds like at speed
This is the quiet end of the range. The chin bar and the sealed visor break up airflow before it reaches your ears, which is the single biggest difference between a full-face and anything open. On a long ride it is the reason you arrive less worn out.
Most of the noise that does get through is turbulence rolling off your screen and shoulders rather than the helmet itself. A rider tucked behind a tall touring screen and a rider on a naked bike will describe the same helmet completely differently.
The chin curtain closes off the gap under the chin bar and makes a noticeable difference on the motorway. Leave it in for winter, take it out for summer.
- Full-face, visor down
- Full-face, visor cracked open
- Open-face with goggles
- Half helmet
Wear earplugs anyway. Wind noise at motorway speed sits well above
the level considered safe for sustained exposure, and no helmet on the market brings
it down far enough on its own. Quieter means less fatigue on a long day — it
does not mean your hearing is protected. Plugs cost very little and you still hear
traffic and your engine clearly.
Is a full-face the right helmet for you?
We sell all three styles, so we have no reason to talk you into the wrong one. A helmet you leave hanging on the mirror because it annoys you protects nobody. Here is an honest comparison so you can buy once.
| Full-faceYou are viewing this | Open-face | Half helmet | |
|---|---|---|---|
| What it covers | Whole head including chin and jaw, with a visor over your eyes | Top, back and sides. Chin and jaw are exposed | Top of the head only. Ears, chin and jaw exposed |
| Wind, rain and cold | Sealed behind the visor. Comfortable in weather most riders would avoid | Face is exposed. Goggles or a bubble shield are close to essential | No weather protection at all. Eye protection is on you |
| Noise at speed | The quietest of the three by a wide margin | Loud above roughly 50 km/h without a screen | Loudest. Nothing between your ears and the airflow |
| Airflow in summer | Manageable when moving, warm in stop-and-go traffic | Excellent. The reason many riders keep one for the city | Coolest of the three |
| Field of view | Meets the certified minimum, though the eye port frames what you see | Wide open, with nothing in your peripheral vision | Completely unobstructed |
| Wearing glasses | Workable, but you feed them in through the eye port after the helmet is on | Easy. Put them on and off however you like | No restriction whatsoever |
| Best suited to | Motorway runs, daily commuting, year-round riding, faster roads | Town riding, classic and cruiser builds, warm climates, short trips | Slow cruising in good weather, riders who want the least helmet possible |
A full-face is the right call if
- You spend time on motorways or fast A roads
- You commute in whatever weather turns up, including the dark half of the year
- You ride for hours at a time and want to arrive less battered by wind and noise
- You want the most coverage available, and chin protection is not negotiable for you
Look at another style if
- Almost all your riding is short hops around town in hot weather
- You find enclosed helmets genuinely uncomfortable and know you would stop wearing it
- The look matters as much as the function and you are building something classic
- You want to talk to people, eat and drink without taking the helmet off
One thing worth saying plainly. Every helmet on this site is certified, and certification is a floor rather than a ranking. A full-face covers more of your head than the other two styles, and that difference is real. But the helmet that actually protects you is the one you reach for every time you ride, so pick the style you will genuinely wear.